In the latest episode of Connecting Africa, CNN’s Eleni Giokos and Victoria Rubadiri explored the rise of Kenyan fashion designers making a mark on the international stage. These designers are not only competing with global brands but are also committed to keeping their value chain within the continent, showcasing African talent and resources.
Rising Demand for African Haute Couture
According to a 2023 UNESCO report, demand for African haute couture is projected to grow by more than 40% over the next decade. This growing interest is evident at the Tranoï Trade Show in Paris, where thousands of global buyers gather to view African collections. Designer Adèle Dejak highlighted a major challenge faced by African designers entering the global market. “Supply chain and trying to make people understand just because we are African, it does not mean our stuff should be dirt cheap,” she said. “Our quality is just as good, and we are affordable luxury.”
Dejak’s creations have gained international acclaim. She proudly displayed earrings exhibited at the Victoria and Albert Museum and a necklace that has travelled to the London V&A and the Brooklyn Museum in New York.
Sustainability at the Heart of African Fashion
Sustainability is a key focus for many African designers, including Kenyan creative Katungulu Mwendwa. During her interview with Rubadiri, Mwendwa showcased her collection titled Blackbird, a Conga Obsidian Dawn, inspired by a folk tale about the chicken and the Guinea fowl.
Mwendwa, who founded her brand ‘Katush’ in 2014, emphasised the importance of sourcing materials locally. “I have been very adamant that sourcing should be from as close to home as possible,” she explained. This commitment stems from her experience growing up in Kenya, where the textile sector has historically struggled. For her latest collection, the production process began in the cotton fields of western Uganda, showcasing her dedication to utilising locally available resources.
However, sourcing materials within the continent comes with its challenges. Mwendwa revealed that importing textiles can increase costs by up to 50%, including shipping expenses. This often results in higher-priced products compared to competitors in other markets.
A Unique Aesthetic with Global Appeal
Despite the challenges, Mwendwa remains optimistic about the future of African fashion. She believes the distinctive aesthetic offered by Kenyan designers will continue to attract international buyers. “It will definitely be more accessible across the continent to reach our consumers in Lagos, Abuja, and other cities. It is so critical for us as Kenyans to share our work with the continent and the world,” she said. “We want to feel that sense of pride and say, ‘Even us, we do cool things.’”
A Bright Future for African Fashion
As designers like Adèle Dejak and Katungulu Mwendwa make strides on the global stage, they are not only transforming perceptions of African fashion but also paving the way for a sustainable and inclusive industry. With rising demand and growing international recognition, the future looks bright for Africa’s fashion market.
